Smell gas right now?
Leave the house. Don't flip switches and don't use your phone inside. From outside, call the Columbia Gas of Ohio emergency line at 1-800-344-4077 or 911. Call us for the repair after the utility has made it safe.
Family-run since 2010 • Plumbing in Greater Cleveland since 1992
Gas Line Repair & Installation in Brunswick, OH
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Gas line work done right, permitted, and pressure-tested.
Hours: Call for availability
Tell us what you've got
Tell us what the house is doing and we'll call you back to set a time. Hours: Call for availability.
Who repairs gas lines — the gas company or a plumber?
Both, on different pipe. The utility owns and maintains the line up to and including your meter, and they're who responds to an active leak. Everything from the meter into the house and out to your appliances belongs to you, the homeowner — and that piping is what a plumbing contractor repairs, replaces, tests, and installs.
That split confuses a lot of people, and it costs them time on the phone during exactly the wrong moment. Columbia Gas will come out fast for a suspected leak, shut things down, and tag the appliance or the line. What they won't do is repipe your basement or run a new branch to your range. That's our end of it, and we pick up where they stop.
Most of the houses we work in around Brunswick, Medina, Strongsville and Hinckley were piped in black iron, some of it going back fifty years and more. That pipe is durable stuff when it stays dry — the trouble is where it doesn't. A run through a damp crawlspace, a buried section out to a detached garage, or a line that's been extended twice by three different people is where we find the problems.
Gas line services
Leak location & repair
Once the utility has shut the gas down and made the house safe, we take it from there. We isolate sections, put the system under test pressure, and use a combustible-gas detector to walk the run down to the actual joint or pinhole rather than replacing pipe on a hunch. Then the repair gets made and the line gets retested before anything is relit.
Corroded black-pipe replacement
Older Brunswick and Medina County homes are full of black iron that's been sweating in a damp basement or buried where it never should have been. Surface rust is normal; flaking scale, pitting at the threads, or pipe running through a wet crawl is not. We replace the compromised run with properly sized and doped pipe instead of patching around it.
New lines for appliances
Gas ranges, dryers, water heaters, garage heaters, fire pits and grills. Every new appliance adds BTU load, and a line that fed one furnace fine in 1978 doesn't automatically feed a furnace plus a range plus a dryer. We size the branch and check the whole system so the last appliance on the run still gets the pressure it needs.
Rerouting during remodels
Kitchen going to an island, laundry moving to the second floor, basement getting finished — the gas has to move with it. We reroute and re-support the piping to keep it out of the way of the new framing and accessible where code wants it accessible, rather than burying a union behind new drywall.
Pressure testing & leak checks
Buying a house, smelling something intermittent, or just want a system checked after work someone else did. We put the piping under test pressure and watch the gauge — a system that holds, holds. If it drops, we find where. It's the only honest way to answer the question, and it's the same test we run after our own repairs.
Signs of a gas problem that is not an active emergency
Not every gas issue is a get-out-of-the-house situation. These are the slow ones — the kind you schedule promptly instead of panicking over. If the smell is strong, or it's inside the house at all, use the protocol at the top of this page first.
Dying plants or grass over a buried line
Escaping gas displaces oxygen at the root zone, and a patch of lawn or a shrub bed that browns out along the run to a garage or fire pit while everything around it is green is a real signal. It's slow and it's outdoors, so it isn't an emergency — but it does mean something under there is leaking and it should get looked at.
A faint hiss at a fitting or appliance connector
Stand next to the range or dryer with everything off and listen. A steady hiss at a shutoff valve or a flex connector points at a fitting that's backed off or a connector that's aged out. Don't start wrenching on it — the fix is usually simple, but it needs a pressure test afterward to prove it's actually done.
A gas bill that climbed with nothing else changing
Same season, same thermostat setting, same appliances, noticeably more gas. Sometimes it's an aging furnace burning worse, sometimes it's gas going out through a leak you can't smell. Worth a look either way rather than paying it for another winter.
Rotten-egg smell outdoors that comes and goes
An intermittent odor near the meter or along a buried run when the wind is right usually means a small outdoor leak that ventilates before it builds. Schedule promptly. If that same smell is strong, or it's inside the house at all, stop reading and follow the protocol at the top of this page instead.
How a gas line repair works
There's no mystery to it, and you should know what you're paying for. Five steps, every time, in this order.
1. Locate
We isolate the system and bring it up to test pressure, then work the run with a combustible-gas detector and soap solution at every joint until the gauge and the meter agree on where the loss is. Guessing costs you pipe you didn't need replaced.
2. Isolate
The affected branch gets shut and capped so the rest of the house isn't dead while we work. On a whole-house issue that isn't possible, and we'll tell you up front how long you'll be without gas heat or hot water.
3. Repair or replace the section
A single failed fitting gets remade properly. Pipe that's pitted, scaled, or running somewhere it shouldn't gets replaced end to end at the nearest sound connections — patching a corroded run just moves the next leak a few feet down the line.
4. Pressure-test again
The repaired system goes back under test and has to hold. No hold, no relight. This is the step that separates work that's finished from work that's merely done, and it's non-negotiable on our trucks.
5. Relight and verify appliances
Furnace, water heater, range, dryer — everything that was shut down gets relit and watched through a full cycle, with the burner flame checked. Gas work is permitted and inspected where the local jurisdiction requires it, and we handle that part rather than leaving it with you.
What does gas line repair cost in the Brunswick area?
Market-typical for this area: a single accessible fitting or short section repair generally lands in the low hundreds, a new branch line to a range, dryer or grill commonly runs several hundred to around a thousand-plus depending on distance and access, and a full replacement of a corroded or buried line reaches into the low thousands. The pressure test tells us which one you're actually looking at.
The variables are all physical: how far the run is, whether we can reach it or have to open a wall or ceiling, how many appliances have to be isolated and retested, and whether the branch that's failing was sized right in the first place. Buried runs to a garage or a fire pit cost more because of the trench, not the pipe.
We'd rather quote after the test than over the phone. Somebody who gives you a firm number for gas work before they've found the leak is either padding it heavily or planning to revise it once they're in your basement. A gas water heater or furnace that keeps dropping out is often a supply problem rather than an appliance problem — worth checking before you replace the unit. See water heater repair and replacement if that's where this started.
What neighbors say
Reviews go here as they're verified. We don't post anything we can't trace back to a real address and a real invoice.
Gas line questions
Can I repair a gas line myself?
No. In most jurisdictions around here gas piping work has to be done by a qualified contractor and inspected, so a homeowner repair is either outright prohibited or a code violation on the record when you sell. Past the paperwork, it's genuinely dangerous — a joint that looks tight can still leak at a rate you'll never smell in an open basement but will absolutely find in a closed utility room. This is one of the few jobs in a house we tell people flatly not to attempt.
Who do I call if I smell gas?
Get everyone out of the house first, and don't touch light switches, garage door openers, or your phone while you're still inside — any of them can spark. From outside, call Columbia Gas of Ohio's emergency line at 1-800-344-4077, or 911. The utility comes out, finds the source, and shuts down what needs shutting down. Once they've made it safe and tagged whatever's leaking, call us and we'll handle the actual repair on the house-side piping.
Do you run gas lines for grills and fire pits?
Yes, and it's a common job in this area. A permanent line to a patio grill or fire pit means no more hauling tanks and no running out mid-cook. We size the branch for the appliance's BTU load along with everything else already on the system, run appropriate exterior-rated pipe, and install a shutoff at the appliance. Same for garage heaters, outdoor kitchens, and generator hookups.
How long does a gas line repair take?
It depends entirely on what the pressure test shows. A single bad fitting or a short section of corroded pipe in an accessible basement is a straightforward visit. A line buried in a wall, running under a slab, or serving several appliances that all need isolating and retesting is a bigger job, and if an inspection is required the schedule isn't ours to set. We'll tell you the scope once we've located the problem instead of guessing at the phone stage.
Need gas piping repaired or run?
Call and tell us what's on the line and where it goes. If the utility has already been out, tell us what they tagged.
Hours: Call for availability